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Cable 1 should be OK if you want to use a headphone jack from your MP3 source. Just check that the connector pins fit into your quadlock on the back of the radio. I think you'll need to enable this with VCDS, but I could be wrong.
 
Thanks.
I hope it's not necessary to use the vag-com cable because i don't have one:? If someone can confirm if it's necessary or not i would appreciate it;-)
The cable 2 has also some type of circuit, so would that solve the problem if i have to use the vag-com cable with the cable 1? Im not sure what that circuit does but maybe it simulates a cd box so the cable can work, im not sure, because i also read somewhere that the concert III(or II+) was already prepared to be added a aux input.
 
The VCDS cable and software is possibly required to re-code the headunit to enable the aux input. That's all it is used for. As for cable 2 with the circuit, this would enable the aux input through the CD changer port.
 
Ok, thanks;-)
I think i will have to buy cable 2 ( the one with the circuit), because i don't have the VCDS cable to recode the radio.
Also, do you know if that circuit is especific for the audi radio? Because a store near me has a cable similar to that, but it says that it's for the bmw 3 series, but the connector it's the same as the audi cables(12 pin). Here is a picture of the cable :
Image

It probably has a circuit on that part covered by foam, so i don't know if it would work
 
Discussion starter · #126 ·
recent A3 install pics

After plowing through this thread months ago and ordering all the parts, I finally got around to installing everything. I took some pics to post, since some of the original links in this thread are expired, and the info is kind of scattered all over. This is a really easy upgrade to do, and it is so nice to finally have a clean aux in.

I have a 2006 A3 with RNS-E, sat radio, cd changer in glovebox, bluetooth.

First you have to upgrade the nav firmware to 0260, by just inserting the latest nav dvd, and it automatically updates. You can literally borrow the disc from someone, do the upgrade, and then go right back to your old disc and it works fine.

Then find someone with a vag com. I went on vagcomlocator.com and found a guy 10 minutes from my house. It is fast and easy, just plug it in, it reads the codes, and ti even tells you what numbers to change for whatever features. In my case, my original code was 0219637 and we changed it to 0219677. You will see other posts on here saying change to 0xxxx5x or 0xxxx6x, etc. That just means the only number you have to change is the second to last number. In my case, the vag com said to change that number to 7 in order to have both sat radio and aux in activated. We changed the code, rebooted the nav (by holding down the am/fm button and setup button for about 5 seconds I think), and then when you go into the CD/SD mode and push the Source List button, the AUX option magically appears. The guy also changed some codes and turned off the seat belt chime, and activated window control from the remote. Nice bonuses.

I ordered these parts, it is everything you need:
1J0-972-977-G (the grey and purple housing)
000-979-009 (this is a single yellow wire, order three total)
8J0-035-475 and 8K0-973-754 (the black aux-in socket and wire housing)

I ordered from primemotorgroup.com, it was about $50 with shipping. I'm sure you can get the parts anywhere.

The three wires come with pins installed on both ends, so they just click into the sockets on each end. You run a wire from hole 21 on the grey to hole 1 on the black. A wire from 6 grey to 2 black. Last wire from 22 grey to 3 black.

You slide the white block into the grey/purple pieces, and you end up with the fully assembled harness.

Pull out the head unit. You need four key/tools for Audi/VW head units. You can get a set off ebay for $5. Insert them into the slots on the face of the head unit, they click into place, and slide the head unit out. There are release buttons on the side to get the tools back out of the head unit. The wires on the back of the head unit are long enough to pull it all the way out and rest it on the shifter.

There is an empty socket in the upper corner of the head unit. Plug the grey connector into it, and the purple piece flips over to lock into place.

Then reach a finger down into the opening under the head unit space, and pop out the blank button next to the ESP button. Then reach into the back head unit space, and run the black connector and yellow wires back out the button opening.

Slide the head unit loosely back into place. Plug the black connector into the aux socket, and then push the aux socket back into the new button opening. On mine it isn't a perfect fit, but it is snug enough that it won't come loose.

Turn on the head unit to make sure everything works (it does), and slide the head unit all the way back, and it clicks/locks into place. Done! The sat radio, cd changer, bluetooth, everything works just like it always did, there is just an extra audio source now.

I ordered a iphone cable that has both a usb and audio out ($4 from monoprice.com) and the sound quality is noticeably better than the headphone jack. The volume level is perfect, and it's one less cable to plug/unplug all the time. I can't believe I went so long without it.
 

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help!

I purchased an Aux input kit from member Haaggie and it didn't come with any instructions.


It has a 12 pin connector and 3 wires, and I don't know which pins the three wires go to.

Also there are only two slots in the wiring harness for 12 pin connectors, so do I have to remove/reroute the other connectors somehow?
 

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Discussion starter · #130 ·
Tried asking Haaggie for instructions?
 
Tried asking Haaggie for instructions?
Yeah, hard to understand though:

"Put the black pinhousing supplied by the AUX adapter IN the connector of the RNS-E (just loose, no click) then look at the topside of the RNS-E for the pinlayout.. put the connectors of the aux adapter in the corresponding pinhole (counting) of the black pinhousing.. Its important to count the pins of the RNS-E for the right position and NOT the numbers on the black pinhousing!


Grey is Aux GND
Yellow is AUX left
Green is AUX right."


Looks like he assumed I had that purple 32 pin connector that the other poster used? There is no way to put the 12 pin connector in the other slot
 
Discussion starter · #132 ·
The 12 pin connector does NOT connect to the RNS-E. The Aux In connections on the Series II+ radios ARE on the B connector (pins 1, 3 & 7), but on the RNS-E they are on the 32-pin AMP AV connector.

What Haaggie is saying is that you have to insert the 3 wires he mentions (grey, yellow and green) into the correct positions of the 32-pin AMP connector (which he is assuming that you have), and that the correct pins are shown on the paper label on the top of the RNS-E.

If you don't have the 32-pin connector then you need to buy one from an Audi dealer. The part number is 1J0 972 977G.
 
Discussion starter · #134 ·
Discussion starter · #136 ·
what is the K-line?


The computer with the vag-com software was connected to the OBDII port.
The K-line is the serial connection that is used to connect the diagnostic port to the RNS-E.

Did you replace a Series II+ radio? If so have you moved the K-line (and Bose line if you have Bose)? If not, then you need to use the search - it's been posted here (and elsewhere) many, many times that the connections of the RNS-E and the Series II+ radios are not the same - despite them both using Quadlock connectors so the retrofit is NOT plug'n'play.
 
The post above by taylormatt... A3 with Nav... (I have '07 A3 with Nav and Bose, 6 changer)...

Is the Aux port/jack on the dash iPod specific? What would I use for generic mp3 player headphone out? Does this change anything else on install?

Thanks.
 
I just finished this mod on my wife's A3 RNS-E.

Hardest part was cutting the hole for the AUX Jack.

Works great!
 
Using the iPod 32 pin connector for AUX in on RNS-E

I was looking at the possibility to charge the iPod at the same time as using the RNS-E aux input . After searching for pin-out charts on the internet I ended up with the plan as shown in the attached picture.



Image


Connection to pin 20 and 30 to charge the iPod via connector 75X under the steering wheel. Connect pin-out 21 to ground using a 1M ohm resistor. The plan is that this will stop the IPod when the +12VDC are lost from pin 20 (engine are stopped).


Things to clarify:
- Will the theory with the resistor work?
- If the resistor theory works, is there another 12VDC signal that can be used so that the iPod stops if the radio or CD is chosen.
- Is the pin out chart I have used for the newer IPods or for the older? I have read somewhere that Apple have changed pin-out (for the FireWire) somewhere down the road?
- Does the cable I plan to use have the necessary wires? dockXtender: Dock Extender Cable for iPad, iPhone and iPod


Any comments are appreciated; I will post back with my progress. Just need to find a solution for programing....
 
12V firewire won't get you far anymore, any newer iPod needs 5V via the USB charging pins. the are cheap USB chargers for the cigarette lighter outlet on Amazon and ebay that you could take apart and wire into an iPod dock cable to solve this issue.
 
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