Audi A8 electric Trunk/Bootlid/ Rear Lid

Hello Audi People

After finishing the installation of my new W12 Xenon Headlights successfully, I am now turning my attention to the rear of my car.

I am interested in having an electric Boot Lid (or Trunk or Rear Lid, depending on how you refer to it!). The one when you press the bootlid button on your keys twice it opens up fully automatically. And when you press it twice again, it closes automatically.

At present mine is bog standard. I know I need a motor of some sorts and also the adapter as on the Fiscon website:

Q7/A6/A8/Passat Remote Tailgate Closure - A8 4E - Audi

Anybody attempted this before?

Any ideas or suggestions to get me going? parts and prices? wiring difficulty?

Thanks

Electric rear lid retrofitting

It seems a very easy installation - and yes, it is! (sorry about the
pictures, made with phone)

Time:

If you made any retrofit before this procedure, it takes 60 minutes. If it's
your first time "self-made tuning at home", you will make it in max. 3 hours.

The parts you need if you don't have a friend in used-parts center:

- Rear lid trim if you don't want to cut yours (there is the mark for cutting
on the rear side of the trim): 4e0 867 975 J (PR-4e2)
- Button to close rear lid: 3d0 959 831 d
- Frame for button: 4e0 867 559 a
- Rear lid drive: 4e0 827 852 g
- Seal for rear lid drive (you can use your old one): 4e0 827 966 b
- Connector for button: 8e0 972 754
- Connector for rear lid drive: 1j0 973 726
- Some wires (ask from your Audi dealer for connectors!)
- Some grease - if you don't want to hear scratching noise from the drive
- A mirror if you want to check the parts

Price:

~ 600 Euros, if you buy everything (brand new)
~ 500 Euros, if you cut your trim
~ 150 Euros, if you buy used parts

Installation:

- Take apart your luggage compartment's back and right side as described in pdf
- Simply remove the unneeded part which is connected with two bolts
- Make wiring between button, drive and the central convenience modul. The hardest thing is to pull (only one) cable from the button to the drive, the others are easy to make.
- Install rear lid drive
- Add 32 to your existing coding in 46-central convenience modul with VCDS
- Enjoy your new feature!

I didn't make connection to anti-theft module, but everything is working perfectly.

nice one mate

Just checking, before you installed the electric boot, was your boot a non stadard one? with no electric motors to pop the boot open?

Thanks

Uzzy

Also,

You got to give us some info on the FOLDING MIRRORS retrofit you did.

That is on my list as well

Thanks

Uzzy

My boot lid was absolutely standard (opening/closing manually exept the last 1/2 cm)

That's very easy. You have to buy the mirrors, take apart your doors and make some coding with vcds. NO ADDITIONAL WIRING needed. I can make a step by step instruction if you need.

step by step on the foldable mirrors would be great.

Also, part numbers as well.

Thanks

Uzzy

Gerappa, could you pls elaborate a little on the wiring for the trunk? I wanna do this mod and feel completely comfortable with the mechnical part but the wiring makes me a little nervous.

If I understand the diagram correctly I need a wire from pin 1 on the motor to pin 18 in the module connector, and then a ground cable from pin 2 on the motor, correct?

Then from the button I need a cable from pin 1 to the B476 connector (wherever that one is..), one from pin 2 to ground and then 2 cables from pins 3 and 4 but where do they go?

Sorry for possibly retarded questions but I rather ask than go trial/error on this one

Cheers

I attached a picture about the connection to the light. The only wire is the control wire, what you need to pull down from button to the control unit.

Awesome, thanks a lot! Where in the module do you plug in the control wire? We're still talking J393 right?

Does everything work well without replacing the dampers and the 2 "stops"? I checked this on a German forum and they claimed new dampers/stops were needed as well for some reason.

Thanks again!
Mattias

Sorry. You have to connect to the Power latching control unit J657.
No need to replace the struts and stops, everything is working fine.

OK, do you plug it into the T5c connector then? And which pin?

Final question
Was there any need to make an adaption of the drive unit to ensure it's in the correct position? Just wanna make sure I don't start with burning the motor after all the job.

You have to connect from button (e406) pin2 to the motor (j605) pin2 directly.
The boot lid must be totally opened, the motor always shipped in opened position. (I don't think that anybody can install it if boot is closed )
There is only one way to install the motor, so you can't burn it.
When I finished the wiring, closed and opened with the key and button before installed into place.

LOL good point on the closed boot...Well now I think I have enough courage to take on this project. A million thanks, you the man!

Hi, I'm nearly there with this retrofit, but does anyone where the positive connection from the motor goes to? I don't just want to connect it directly to the main positive connection, when I guess it should go through a fuse (SF7 - 20A) I believe?

According to ELSA it goes to B316 - Positive connection 2 (30a), in main wiring harness, but I dont know where that is?

Any help would be great!

No worries - found it eventually!!

Auto boot now working fine. Thanks to those on this post for the info.

Congrats! Where was the connection located? I'll finally do this one next week when I get the small parts delivered. Just received the driving unit.

Swedish retard back again....what's the cable from pin 6 on the motor good for? Earthing connection?

Sorry for the delay - I don't check this forum that often!!

Pin 6 from the rear lid motor is goes to ground. If you look inside the battery compartment (where the rear lid motor is to be installed), you'll see two ground points (bolts) with brown wires going to them. These ground connections are at the rear of the battery (nearest you), on the floor of the area. You can connect PIN 6 from the motor to either one of these points, but I used the slightly smaller bolt with wire that has 2.5mm2 conductor area.

For the positive connection from PIN 5 on the rear lid motor, I spliced into the red/black wire that comes from the fuse unit in the battery compartment which goes towards the rear seats through the plastic trunking. It's a difficult one to explain it's location I'm afraid! The wire you splice into (using a Scotchlok 560... google it if you don't know what one of these is), is also a 2.5mm2 gauge wire. The cable is bunched up with a load of others that run behind the power management module. I didn't want to cut the red/black wire, as I left the battery connected throughout the retrofit, and I'm not too sure what else would be affected by disconnecting what is actually a positive connection for other modules in the car.

I've attached a complete wiring diagram for the power lid closure that I created to help me... hope it helps you and others too!

Oh - and just for information, I'm having to replace the two gas struts (dampers), as occasionaly when the boot closes, it just misses the power latch switch and doesn't always pull the boot shut. I think my gas struts needed replacing anyway though, but having checked with Audi today, there are different gas struts for models with power boot closure (4E0 827 551C and 4E0 827 552C).

Thanks a bunch mitchet. Just checked Gerappas PDF again and realized I didn't see the taped up cable from pin 5 on the motor until just now. Then it's fully clear. I have some of those splicing connectors but I'm not a big fan of them at least in cars and even less a fan of cutting existing ones, but I guess it could also be possible to connect pin 5 direct to the battery and just add a fuse directly on that cable, right?

Those dampers seem to be a hit or miss then. As I mentioned further up I read in a German forum at the C type is needed for this but apparently it works well for Gerappa and others. In any case it's no big deal to replace so I'll try the the existing ones first.

Thanks again for the clarifications! I'm replacing my trunk lid tonight with the S8 type so I'll start with the wiring for the el.operation as well.